Leticias Restaurant ★9.7

Leticias: Ecuador’s New Wave Lands in Corona

Ceviche that locals argue is the best in the borough, cocktails built on Ecuadorian spirits and tropical fruit, and a kitchen that treats Andean comfort food as something worth showing off — Leticias is what happens when a family recipe box gets a modern soundtrack.

The Concept

The restaurant is named for the owner’s mother, Leticia, whose recipes anchor the menu. The pitch is simple and rare: authentic Ecuadorian classics served with contemporary polish and creative twists, in a neighborhood where the cuisine is usually kept strictly old-school. Corona has plenty of Ecuadorian cooking; it has very little Ecuadorian cooking presented like this.

What to Order

Start with the ceviche — the citrus hits clean and the seafood is impeccable — or the encebollado, the beloved tuna-and-cassava soup that cures whatever ails you. The fritada delivers crackling pork with mote pillo on the side, the chaulafán fried rice is pure comfort, and the whole trucha is a sleeper hit. Wash it down with the house Quaker Frío, a cold oat-and-fruit drink, or something stronger from the Ecuadorian-spirit cocktail list.

The Space

A bright, contemporary dining room that skips folkloric clichés — clean lines, warm service, music at a level that still allows debate over whose mother makes better llapingachos. It works equally at weekend lunch, when families take over, and at night, when the cocktails start moving.

Who It’s For

Adventurous eaters working through Queens one cuisine at a time, Ecuadorian expats testing it against memory, and groups that want somewhere lively without crossing into Manhattan.

Good to Know

Do I need a reservation? Walk-ins work most days; weekends get busy, so book or arrive early.

What should a first-timer order? Ceviche plus encebollado — the two dishes the reputation stands on.

Is there a real bar program? Yes — cocktails feature Ecuadorian spirits and fresh fruit, well beyond the usual beer list.

Anything vegetarian? Yes: tigrillo, mote pillo, tostones and hearty sides assemble into a satisfying meat-free meal.

Is it family-friendly? Completely — weekend afternoons are multigenerational, and the kitchen is generous with kids.

Opening hours